Cafe Liz
Kosher vegetarian recipes from my kitchen in Tel Aviv
Greens of the season: What’s in your yard, what’s in the market — and what’s off-limits
February 24, 2010 at 12:00 am | Tags: Arab, beet, chicory, cyclamen, Israeli, mallow, mustard, parve, rice, sorrel, stuffed, tumbleweed, vegan, zaatar | 7 Comments
The winter rains bring with them an explosion of green growth, much of which filters its way into our markets -- well, some of them, at least. For whatever reason -- wealth? -- many of the wild greens do not play a role in most people's diets. And it's a pity, because native plants are an excellent way to embrace the land, eating local at its best.
However, you can still find them. A few of them may be in your yard, or growing alongside parking lots, or next to roads. Well, any of them could be there -- these are wild plants, after all. But you can save yourself the trouble (and potential danger) of identifying them yourself by buying them after someone else did the foraging -- Arab and interracial locales, as well as less well-off places, are a good bet for this.
There's a potential catch, though. Some plants that have been part of the culinary tradition for hundreds of years are now protected by law due to overpicking, but they're still being sold in the markets. Most likely it's a matter of ignorance. However, there's a reason they're protected -- they've become endangered by the harvesting habits, which in many cases prevent them from reproducing.
Here's a list of what's what -- the plants I've identified around my house (mallow, sorrel, nettle), the delights in various markets (wild beet, chicory, mustard, and Jerusalem sage) a few that were there but shouldn't be (cyclamen, tumbleweed). Last but not least -- some simple recipes that highlight the vibrant freshness of the season.
But before we begin, a warning: If you're not 100 percent sure you know what you're picking, don't eat it. People have died over misidentifications. At the very least, this guide will give you the satisfaction of knowing what's in your yard. Knowing how to identify the urban flora makes your environment a little bit more familiar -- especially when you see your friend the mallow bush peeking out at every opportunity.
Now, let's go. Continue reading Greens of the season: What’s in your yard, what’s in the market — and what’s off-limits...
Asparagus with sesame oil and herbs
April 20, 2009 at 1:00 am | Tags: asparagus, herbs, parve, sage, vegan, zaatar | No Comments
I was looking for a fresh way to prepare a springtime bunch of asparagus I picked up at the market — something light that would let the flavor of the asparagus dominate. This simple salad incorporates fresh herbs, another great springtime ingredient. I used a few leaves of sage and zaatar, which I have growing on my patio, but if you don’t have any zaatar, you could substitute oregano or thyme. I don’t recommend using dried spices, since that would change the spirit of the dish. Continue reading Asparagus with sesame oil and herbs…
Quick soda bread with zaatar, sun-dried tomatoes, and more
March 21, 2009 at 1:00 am | Tags: bread, buttermilk, dairy, pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes, zaatar | No Comments
In honor of St. Patrick’s day, apparently there’s been a debate raging about soda bread. The conclusion is that once you start adding things beyond flour, buttermilk and baking soda, it’s not traditionally Irish. Well, that’s fine with me. I added zaatar and sun-dried tomatoes to mine, and I make no claims of Irish authenticity. This is the Levant, after all.
Soda bread has a major advantage — it’s quick and easy. I wanted bread for breakfast, and this took max 30 minutes from start to finish. No kneading, rising, kneading rising again …. With that, I should note that since it uses baking soda and not yeast as the leavening agent, it has a taste of baking soda, not yeast. That means it comes out slightly salty. This is either an advantage or a disadvantage, depending how you look at it. But have I mentioned it’s quick? Continue reading Quick soda bread with zaatar, sun-dried tomatoes, and more…
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All content and photos copyright 2008-2010, Liz Steinberg, at Cafe Liz (food.lizsteinberg.com). All rights reserved. Please seek permission before republishing.