Cafe Liz
Kosher vegetarian recipes from my kitchen in Tel Aviv
Vegetables with couscous, the slow way

There’s a little restaurant in the Yemenite quarter with a wide-ranging menu with flagship dishes from at least four ethnicities — including jachnun, kubbeh, couscous and hummus — and it excels at all. How could this be?
Generally, when I walk into a restaurant that offers both, say, pad thai and sushi (or worse — schnitzel and sushi), I get a little suspicious about ordering either one. You’ll find lots of so-called “Asian” restaurants around here that basically make a mishmash of different ethnicities’ flagship dishes without mastering any of them.
We may not have many Thais or Japanese to lend us their culinary expertise — in one amusing news tidbit, the government is offering to train veterans as sushi chefs in the hope that they’ll replace foreign workers — but we have plenty of Yemenites, Kurds, Iraqis, North Africans and Arabs, to name a few. All these people are an integral part of society, and their foods are an integral part of the local culinary tradition. Continue reading Vegetables with couscous, the slow way …
What makes a beer Israeli?

Is there such a thing as Israeli beer, and if so, what makes a beer Israeli? I’m not the first person to ask that question, but it comes up again on the occasion of Israel’s second-ever beer expo, Beers 2012. The local industry is young but growing, with a profusion of microbreweries and home breweries — enough of them to fill a stadium (Nokia Stadium, to be precise). But while the beers are brewed here — even the mass-market Danish [...]
Continue reading ...Saluf, traditional Yemenite flatbread

Walking through the Yemenite quarter one Friday morning, I passed an open window advertising fresh lahoh. What more of an invitation do I need? But there was no one there. Peering inside, I couldn’t even see any bread — none of the telltale bags of stacked lahoh or saluf, full of condensation that keeps the flatbreads moist and fresh as they cool. Across the street there was another sign in a window advertising lahoh. Eitan’s lahoh, it said. I’d passed [...]
Continue reading ...Six Israeli white wines I like (and one red)

There are few experiences more fun than a wine expo. Good wine, cheese and a crowd that gets progressively friendlier as the day (and night) wears on. As a bonus, Israeli wines tend to be particularly alcoholic — the climate makes for sugary grapes, which in turn leads to alcohol content of as much as 14% versus 11% to 12% in Europe. I’d been waiting excitedly for Sommelier 2011, the annual wine expo for the food industry, which was held [...]
Continue reading ...Jerusalem kugel

It took me years to realize that my husband liked Jerusalem kugel. Once I did, I turned it into his birthday cake. This might be because I only recently discovered the dish myself. Wandering through Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda market sometime last year, I encountered — let’s be honest — unappealing murky brown slices of God-knows-what wrapped in plastic wrap at one of the deli stands, alongside the various cured fish. After verifying that it did not contain meat, I bought [...]
Continue reading ...What does it take to cook for an army?

I had the pleasure of joining New Orleans chefs John Besh, Alon Shaya, Jacques Leonardi and David Slater on a base in the Golan Heights last week as they prepared dinner for a battalion, as part of a Jewish Agency program between New Orleans and Rosh Ha’ayin. So what happens when you dump four top chefs into a military kitchen and force them to work with the limited tools at the army chefs’ disposal? You can read articles I wrote [...]
Continue reading ...The wheat season

Two men, crouching against the wall just inside the Damascus Gate. Spread out before them were three piles of spring’s freshest bounty — crisp grape leaves, green chickpeas still in their pods, and what was that last one? I squinted. Wheat. Fresh, green wheat berries. Ariella and I stopped. What do you do with it? I asked one man. He turned to his friend — he didn’t speak Hebrew. You eat it, the second man told me. I nibbled a [...]
Continue reading ...Mufletas — the best way to end Passover

The week-long Passover holiday can often end with a fizzle, but Moroccan Jews know how to let it go out with a bang — with music, drums and sequins, and lots of sweets and leavened pastries, of course. That’s Mimuna, the holiday our newspapers love to cover and our politicians love to attend. My first Mimuna was at the home of my friend Renee’s grandmother, in Kiryat Gat. A small, hunched woman with a twinkle in her eye, she’d raised [...]
Continue reading ...Meet Jerusalem zaatar

It’s not so common that I find something new and surprising at the shook, which makes it all the more exciting when it does happen. Poking my nose through one of the herb stands last week, I found a new, unfamiliar leaf. It looked like tarragon. I asked what it was. “Zaatar,” the seller told me. But it doesn’t look like zaatar, I responded. “Taste it,” he said. So I did.
Continue reading ...Exploring Bnei Brak with Joan Nathan

Late Thursday night, I received an e-mail from cookbook author Joan Nathan, telling me she’d canceled her plans for Friday. Would I like to visit the Tel Aviv farmer’s market and Bnei Brak with her? Geez, what a question! Of course I would. But there was a catch. There’s always a catch. She gave me a call the following morning, and we made plans to meet in half an hour. Did I know where we could find good Ashkenazi food [...]
Continue reading ...Cafe Liz: Kosher vegetarian recipes, Israeli food culture, a mix of the Mediterranean and the Middle East.
All content and photos copyright 2008-2012, Liz Steinberg. All rights reserved. Please seek permission before republishing.
Powered by WordPress with theme based on Pool design by Borja Fernandez.




By e-mail
On Facebook
On Twitter
Via RSS