Cafe Liz
Kosher vegetarian recipes from my kitchen in Tel Aviv
Jachnun — Yemenite breakfast

Jachnun is one of those dishes that everyone in Israel loves but few actually make themselves. These rolled sticks of dough are a Yemenite Jewish food. The dish is one of many slow-cooked Jewish foods invented to be prepared a day in advance and baked all night long, so that there would be hot food on the sabbath, when lighting fires is prohibited.
Brought over by Yemenite immigrants, jachnun was warmly embraced by Israeli society as a whole. It’s traditionally served here with grated fresh tomato, skhug (Yemenite hot sauce), and a hard-boiled egg, cooked in the pot along with the dough. You can find it sold at roadside stands, restaurants and rest stops; for those who want to feel like they’re making it themselves, you even can buy it frozen at the supermarket. All you have to do is fit the frozen logs into a jachnun pot and bake overnight.
Mind you, there are people still making jachnun from scratch. And it’s not too difficult — you make a dough of flour, white sugar and water, roll it out thinly, coat liberally with margarine and roll it up. Yemenite filo dough. Yes, this is one unhealthful food. But fortunately, if you’re making it yourself, you have some control over that. Continue reading Jachnun — Yemenite breakfast …
Brunch: Poached eggs in bird’s nests, and grilled asparagus

This brunch looks complicated, but it’s actually quite quick and simple to pull together: You pack the kadaif noodles into bowls and stick them in the toaster, toss the asparagus (or vegetable of choice) into a pan to grill, and let the eggs boil for a minute or two in the meanwhile. Then you assemble it. That’s all. As a bonus, it tastes good and looks nice — the nest comes out crunchy and buttery, and soaks up the liquid [...]
Continue reading ...Buckwheat pancakes

Sometimes ideas come out of nowhere. For some reason, I had the idea to make buckwheat pancakes. I’m not sure I’ve even had them more than two or three times, but it’s an American southern classic, and I guess the sound of the name just said breakfast to me. So we made buckwheat pancakes. Buckwheat is not actually related to wheat; in fact, it isn’t even a grain. It plays a role in different cultures around the world, and my [...]
Continue reading ...Israeli breakfast — the best of brunch in Tel Aviv, and a mustard-blue cheese omelet

Brunch is beyond a tradition in Tel Aviv -- it's a culture. Every self-respecting restaurant offers a breakfast menu, which invariably includes "Israeli breakfast" -- generally speaking, some form of eggs, a leafy or chopped vegetable salad, assorted white cheeses, a few other spreads, some bread, coffee and/or fresh juice. The main variation is in the creativity of the spreads, the quality of the ingredients and the price. (In the photo: Breakfast at the Brasserie. A review of my favorite [...]
Continue reading ...Restaurant: Brunch at Piccotto in Zichron Yaakov

We happened upon this restaurant while strolling through Zichron Yaakov, looking for a place to eat brunch. It turned out to be an excellent deal in a very pleasant setting — about a dozen mezes, alongside fresh-baked bread, coffee and an omelet/shakshuka of your choosing, for 56 shekels a person (about $13). Fresh vegetables and local herbs played a large role in the mezes, of which all but one (the smoked salmon) were vegetarian. Lots of tahini sauces, and lots [...]
Continue reading ...Loquat peach waffles

These waffles are light and fruity, probably because they contain nearly half a kilo of fruit. This is a good way to take advantage of Spring’s bounty with a decadent breakfast. I’m still going through my bucket of loquats, which are sweet and ripe. Peaches are definitely coming into season, because two weeks in a row we’ve come home from the market with little specimens that turned out to be sweet and juicy. I blended the two fruits together to [...]
Continue reading ...Banana amaretto waffles

This batter yields a soft, mildly banana-flavored waffle, good enough to eat without syrup. I found sweet, ripe bananas at the shook, which were perfect (for waffles as well as any other baked good).
Continue reading ...Bimuelos (sweet Passover dumplings)

My mother learned to make bimuelos from her maternal grandmother, who brought the recipe with her from Istanbul, along with her special bimuelo pan. I don’t know anyone else who makes bimuelos for Passover, beyond my immediate family. And it’s a pity. They’re quite good. The word bimuelo merely means a fried dough delicacy in Judeo-Spanish. You could consider my family’s version a kind of Sephardi matzo ball — the batter is similar, but instead of being cooked in chicken [...]
Continue reading ...Spring frittata with purple cauliflower and green beans

I’m not entirely sure this merits a recipe, but it certainly merits a photo. So I might as well explain how I made it. We’ve been buying purple vegetables since we discovered them at the Friday farmer’s market in the Tel Aviv port. They definitely liven up any meal. And yes, it seems the color of the cauliflower bled slightly onto the egg.
Continue reading ...Amaretto french toast

This burst of cold weather we’ve been having is making me want heavy, sweet foods for breakfast, which we eat at an hour that others would consider lunch. Hence, brunch. I recently bought a bottle of amaretto, and I’ve been looking for ways to use it — I bought it with baking in mind, far be it from us to actually drink liquor. So I added a bit to my french toast. By adding amaretto and milk, I came up [...]
Continue reading ...Cafe Liz: Kosher vegetarian recipes, Israeli food culture, a mix of the Mediterranean and the Middle East.
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