Israeli food culture

Insights into various aspects of the local food scene.

November 11, 2011

Jerusalem kugel

Liz Steinberg

It took me years to realize that my husband liked Jerusalem kugel. Once I did, I turned it into his birthday cake. This might be because I only recently discovered the dish myself. Wandering through Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda market sometime last year, I encountered — let’s be honest — unappealing murky brown slices of God-knows-what wrapped in plastic wrap at one of the deli stands, alongside the various cured fish. After verifying that it did not contain meat, I bought [...]

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November 2, 2011

Delicate sambusak with zaatar and cheese

Liz Steinberg

This is a different kind of sambusak. One I’d never seen before. Sambusak is one of those ubiquitous snack foods around here, somewhere next to burekas. While these deep-fried or baked pockets of dough have a strong association here with Iraqi Jews, many of whom consider them an integral part of their culinary heritage, they’re made throughout the Middle East by people from a range of cultures. Not too surprising, no? Sambusak are sold at every cheap bakery in town, [...]

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October 24, 2011

How to eat a pomegranate

Liz Steinberg

While the fall holidays may be over, fortunately the pomegranates aren’t. You can still find them in abundance, and prices are dropping to incredible lows — four shekels a kilo. We have a whole heap of discount pomegranates in the kitchen. And they’re lovely. I was hoping to come up with some creative pomegranate recipe for the holiday, but we couldn’t seem to keep ourselves from eating the fruit before I got to cook with them. But actually, that’s fine [...]

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September 28, 2011

Happy Rosh Hashanah, and vegetarian meal ideas

Liz Steinberg

It’s that time of year: The entire nation is packing into grocery stores and markets, as if no food will be left come the Jewish new year. Actually, that’s pretty much how we prepare for any Jewish holiday. By now, most of you probably know what you’re eating for the very long Rosh Hashanah weekend, which starts in a few hours and ends Saturday night. Our meal will be dairy, as always, and here are a few of the dishes [...]

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September 6, 2011

Stuffed bottle squash, Nazareth style

Liz Steinberg

The night before I was scheduled to visit her in Nazareth, my friend Jida called me. “I have bad news,” she said. “Tomorrow is Eid. Everything is going to be closed.” She added, “I know how much you like the market.” Well, I do like Nazareth’s market, but I was ultimately going to see friends. The date of Eid al-Fitr, the holiday that ends Ramadan, is determined in the most traditional way — based on the sighting of the new [...]

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August 29, 2011

Where to buy food in Tel Aviv

Liz Steinberg

We’re in the midst of the largest social protests in decades. At the center of it all is the cost of living — the economy is powering ahead, but people are being left behind. We pay high monopoly taxes, and consumers are starting to realize that. Banks, supermarket chains, communications companies, baby products — they’re all raking it in, with hefty profit margins beyond what’s internationally accepted. One recent Facebook initiative calls for a 1-week boycott of the largest supermarket [...]

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August 16, 2011

Watermelon with arak and basil

Liz Steinberg

We have a watermelon problem. You see, we went a little watermelon crazy at the farmer’s market. Watermelon is one of those things I can’t really buy on my own — it’s too heavy. But here I was with my husband at the Tel Aviv port, and here was a stand selling all sorts of watermelons in all different colors — yellow, orange, red and more. They were 20 each, or 2 for 25 — which sounded expensive, until we [...]

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August 10, 2011

Homemade pickles for cucumber season

Liz Steinberg

This is what we call cucumber season. It’s that sultry time of year when everyone is on vacation and the only thing that’s happening is cucumbers are ripening on the vine. This year we’re having an unusually exciting cucumber season, with the largest social protests in decades, but at least in some regards, it’s cucumber season nonetheless — our little green friends are overflowing from their market stalls and are cheap and abundant for pickling. Pickles are somewhat of a [...]

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July 6, 2011

What does it take to cook for an army?

Liz Steinberg

I had the pleasure of joining New Orleans chefs John Besh, Alon Shaya, Jacques Leonardi and David Slater on a base in the Golan Heights last week as they prepared dinner for a battalion, as part of a Jewish Agency program between New Orleans and Rosh Ha’ayin. So what happens when you dump four top chefs into a military kitchen and force them to work with the limited tools at the army chefs’ disposal? You can read articles I wrote [...]

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May 24, 2011

The wheat season

Liz Steinberg

Two men, crouching against the wall just inside the Damascus Gate. Spread out before them were three piles of spring’s freshest bounty — crisp grape leaves, green chickpeas still in their pods, and what was that last one? I squinted. Wheat. Fresh, green wheat berries. Ariella and I stopped. What do you do with it? I asked one man. He turned to his friend — he didn’t speak Hebrew. You eat it, the second man told me. I nibbled a [...]

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All content and photos copyright 2008-2012, Liz Steinberg, at Cafe Liz (food.lizsteinberg.com). All rights reserved. Please seek permission before republishing.